The Exquisite Sarees of Mangalagiri
Mangalagiri in Guntur District of Andhra
Pradesh is synonymous with beautiful sarees. This village is located
about 12 kilometres from Vijayawada and weaving is one of the main
occupations besides paddy cultivation. The uniqueness of Mangalagiri
sarees lies in its design.
Mangalagiri Sarees
These beautiful and exquisite sarees
feature tribal designs and are woven from cotton. The sarees have
borders that are adorned with beautiful brocade. The pallu of the
falling edge of the saree usually is embellished with stripes made from
gold thread, or zari. The sarees are available in a variety of colours,
but all of them have a distinct and unique tribal design and pattern.
History of Weaving Industry in Mangalagiri
Mangalagiri has always been a popular
pilgrim destination. The temple dedicated to Lord Panakala Narasimha
Swamy attracts droves of devotees who have offered the deity jaggery
water for centuries. According to local tradition, devotees have to pay
homage to the deity at this temple and then buy a saree woven by a local
weaver before leaving the village. This tradition gave impetus to the
weaving industry in the area.
According to ancient inscriptions found
on pillar here, it is claimed that in 1593, the rulers from the Qutub
Shahi dynasty increased taxes on handloom textiles in this region.
Unable to meet the rise in taxes, the local weavers migrated to other
regions. This dealt a severe blow to Mangalagiri weaving industry and
caused the rulers to take a second look at the tax rise and reduce it.
This history evidence shows that the weaving industry of Mangalagiri is
more than 500 years old, making it an ancient craft.
Uniqueness of Mangalagiri Sarees
The weavers who painstaking weave
exquisite fabric for sarees and other attire use a pit loom to weave
pure and durable cotton fabric. The resultant fabric does not have any
weave design. The sarees woven in Mangalagiri has a border known as
Nizam border, which can be found just in this village. Another
uniqueness of the fabric woven here is that there are no gaps on the
weave at the edge of the material.
Today, Mangalagiri weaving community
consisting of nearly 5,000 weavers are a happy lot, as they have been
conferred GI status. This means a lot to the artisans, who will be able
to get global recognition. Already the weavers of this village are
facing intense competition from powerlooms and thanks to the GI
certification, they will be able to hold their own in the handloom
garment industry.
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